Yesterday Jim Ewing and I completed a mixed project that I bolted up on Mt. Willard. I've named the route Dial M for Murder M8 after the old Alfred Hitchcock film, which seems fitting for the area. I completed the first ascent, which was followed quickly by Jim right after me. Dial M a fully bolted mixed rig, except for the ice at the top, and is a very FUN climb. I look forward to hearing from any folks that get on it.
Route Beta
Dial M for Murder climbs out of the lower portion of the Upper Hitchcock Gully past six bolts. Starting on strenuous rock moves, climb past two bolts and establish yourself on an ice drool to clip the third. Move up the ice and begin to trend leftward past two more bolts moving over two rock corners to gain the bottom of the third smooth hanging corner. Very delicate (and small!) pick and crampon placements allow you to balance up the corner and establish yourself on the thinnest of ice smears where you can clip the last bolt. From there, move left on a steinpull under the roof to gain the ice. Fire to the top. There are slings in the trees to rap off of, however, bring carabiners or mallions to leave if you prefer to lower-off (which is much easier to clean the route). 60m rope recommended, though a 50m is probably sufficient.
Read Climbing Magazine's article about Dial M for Murder here.
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